I was curious if there was a set precedure for the cleaning out & flushing of bearings and housing that use oil, not grease? In past years I've noticed many mechanics spraying contact cleaner all through the cages and bearings then using plant air to blow them out.

One millwright we had here, not here anymore, said that if you did that at some plants you would be fired...

I don't use air I always clean them with the cleaner then dab everything out of the housing with towels and a screwdriver.

Any comments on this from the experts in the group? Or better ideas...

Thanks

That millwright was right. Compressed air may have rust particles and water and, and. Generally there are OEM recommendations and/or guidlines. Some sprays may leave residues. Some residues are not compatible with additives or good for the system. There are clean air systems that are portable and warm light flushings you can use to blow-out the cleaning fluids and sop up from the case or housing but I do not recommend toweling a bearing at all; never. And finally you can flush with with 'normal' lubricant and replenish. Cleaning all lines and filter housings is recommended. Firms like Trico, Noria and several others can furnish recommendations. Doug Holmes at PredictUSA (now Trico) is a qualified lube engineer that can help or give you additional information.

Good info Sam. I know there are a lot of misconceptions about how to clean bearings. I knew plant air wasn't a good idea.

Even as far back as 1971-75 I was an aircraft mechanic in the air force, it was a no-no to blow bearings at all. We used a special cleaning solvent which dried quick, then relubed.

Thanks,

Good comments above.

If you are flushing the housing, sometimes it is preferred to heat the lubricant (within a safe range) to reduce viscosity for more effective flushing (which does a better job at rinsing off your dishes... molasses or water?). Another alternative is initial flushing with low-viscosity lubricant or an solvent, then followed by flush with normal lubricant to remove residue of the earlier flushes. But if you put a different lubricant/fluid in for flushing, there is small risk of unexpected results from incomplete removal and interaction with elastomeric materials or the original lubricant. You have to weigh the risks vs the benefits (more effective flushing in reduced time).

And a warm flushing I sometimes use is transmission fluid.

I've been in touch with Trico and they are seeing what products they have available for cleaning and flushing bearings. There is also filtered air I hear which is proper to use.

Ask about a procedure for bearing maintenance and cleaning but he couldn't offer one. Only an in-house class 4-8 hours on bearing maintenance in which they offer a method to do this. He didn't say what though.

NAPA makes a bearing cleaning solvent, I may check into that just for the product name.

I would be hesitant about using air, even if filtered, because (like you) I have heard too many times that it is not allowed under any circumstances. I remember seeing a few procedures for cleaning bearings over the years and never heard mention of using filtered air. The bearing cleaning solvent you mentioned sounds like a better idea to me.

I, like the nasty car boys; use nitrogen. It's clean and free of ___________ or you name it.

I looked at the MSDS on it. It contains Acetone & orange peel oil. To avoid using air and or towels. we need something that is compatible with the oil.

Aside from blowing out, how would you recommend removing all that trash from the bearing housing?

Bearing housing: catastrophic failure. Very close inspection will reveal tiny flakes stuck and almost look like part of the casting. When we say clean, we mean clean. This stuff will come off at some point and whamo - short life. On power head of pump or pillowblock bearing housing or.... get it super clean. Powerblaster is a good choice and brush and clean and brush; it can't be too clean. If a rag will stick and leave anything behind don't use it. You got the idea so use somthing that won't come off or peel or flake or anything. You want nothing inside. I have never figured out how those little flakes of metal from a failed bearing will stick to the side like they do and are so hard to get out.

Generally folk replace bearings and cleaning the bearing itself isn't an issue. Lines, reservoirs and the like are where I see the biggest problem.

Vacuum pumps can also clean. Do you have a 'clean room' for rebuilding pump? Should you with filtered air. Are you rebuilds as good as new OEM and last as long or longer? They should.

Think safety first, air blowing particles everywhere is not an option. The risk of further contamination due to rags, air and or degreasers must also be high on the priority. We use the lighter grade viscosity oil when required. We have seen bearings washed with solvent only to fail a few months down the track. On investigation it was found that the degreaser properties stuck so good to the bearings and gears the oil could not get in and do its job. So I would be very hesitant to do this. The other option is too add a magnetic drain plug or filter the new oil once it has had approx 48hours of use.
Our recent plant audit showed that some of our maintainers needed to be retrained as they were found filling gearboxes with the top inspection cover wide open to the elements and contamination would occur. Too them this was the quickest way to get the new oil in but they were not concerned about the little bits of whatever that also fell in at the time.

Anyway hope this helps.

Hooch

Yes, I have seen and had to deal with these casting blobs as I call them stuck to the inside of the housings. I've had to remove those obvious ones, and clean again and again.

quote:

Originally posted by Slim Pickens:
Bearing housing: catastrophic failure. Very close inspection will reveal tiny flakes stuck and almost look like part of the casting. When we say clean, we mean clean. This stuff will come off at some point and whamo - short life. On power head of pump or pillowblock bearing housing or.... get it super clean. Powerblaster is a good choice and brush and clean and brush; it can't be too clean. If a rag will stick and leave anything behind don't use it. You got the idea so use somthing that won't come off or peel or flake or anything. You want nothing inside. I have never figured out how those little flakes of metal from a failed bearing will stick to the side like they do and are so hard to get out.

Generally folk replace bearings and cleaning the bearing itself isn't an issue. Lines, reservoirs and the like are where I see the biggest problem.

Vacuum pumps can also clean. Do you have a 'clean room' for rebuilding pump? Should you with filtered air. Are you rebuilds as good as new OEM and last as long or longer? They should.

What do you guys think of this cleaner here?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2HYY1

And my other thought is, if these types of bearing cleaners would hamper the oil wedge,or protection why do they put it on the market?

I remember tearing down gear box's on several types of military aircraft when I served and we used cleaners then, one being PD-680, and the bearings were re-installed after inspection, or replaced, depending on the critical nature of the bearings location.

Never had problems with those.

That link from Grainger above is specifically made for bearings, and other applications. I pulled up the MSDS on this, and it is made up of acetone, & orange peel lubricant.

Do we have any experts here in the field of Tribology? I'm basically looking for solutions. Already know what not to do. I've discussed with my supervisors at length about the negatives of using plant air, but they are looking at the track record here when using it, and not seeing bearing failures. I understand there are no perfect senarios, but I'm looking to be near the bullseye. Getting alot of different opinions, but my guess is there is a right way. Just need to find it.

quote:

Originally posted by Hooch:
Think safety first, air blowing particles everywhere is not an option. The risk of further contamination due to rags, air and or degreasers must also be high on the priority. We use the lighter grade viscosity oil when required. We have seen bearings washed with solvent only to fail a few months down the track. On investigation it was found that the degreaser properties stuck so good to the bearings and gears the oil could not get in and do its job. So I would be very hesitant to do this. The other option is too add a magnetic drain plug or filter the new oil once it has had approx 48hours of use.
Our recent plant audit showed that some of our maintainers needed to be retrained as they were found filling gearboxes with the top inspection cover wide open to the elements and contamination would occur. Too them this was the quickest way to get the new oil in but they were not concerned about the little bits of whatever that also fell in at the time.

Anyway hope this helps.

Hooch

Based on what culture? I've seen plants unhappy with four years service from a pump and others happy if they get two. Had a new hire from a chemical plant. He was telling me, you go to a lot of trouble with details; how long do you expect that to last - I told him and he was in shock and said, boss, I'm here to learn.

Like your car; is it still running great at 300,000 miles? Really, it should! Sorry, gotta go now but the rest of the story is interesting - good day.

My Airstream manual say to clean the wheel bearings with kerosene before repacking. Keroseve is light and clean and I believe it has no additives. Or how about jet fuel, which I believe is kerosene with a wax lubricant added.

JP-4,7 ETC as all Jet-A type fuels are kerosene based. We used JP-4 when I was in from 1971-77

PD-680 was the cleaning solvent of choice back then. Not sure about now. Heres a link on this:

http://www.corrdefense.org/Aca...nference%20paper.pdf

We used coal oil, or kerosene in the 60's in service stations. I guess my whole jist of this thread was to find the proper method for industrial application.

quote:

Originally posted by Wally:
My Airstream manual say to clean the wheel bearings with kerosene before repacking. Keroseve is light and clean and I believe it has no additives. Or how about jet fuel, which I believe is kerosene with a wax lubricant added.

Oh BTW,

We also used to dip our Zippo lighters into the PD-680...Worked great for lighter fluid...(:>

quote:

Originally posted by Rockin' Rod:
We used coal oil, or kerosene in the 60's in service stations. I guess my whole jist of this thread was to find the proper method for industrial application.

quote:

Originally posted by Wally:
My Airstream manual say to clean the wheel bearings with kerosene before repacking. Keroseve is light and clean and I believe it has no additives. Or how about jet fuel, which I believe is kerosene with a wax lubricant added.

Is the cleaning done in-place or in the shop?
Is the machine disassembled including bearings removed from the housing? Or still partially assembled with beairngs still in the housing?
Rolling element bearings or sleeve bearings?

These are all fans which we are cleaning on our annual turnarounds, in place. Split housing SKF two rows spherical rollers.

Trico 1-pint refillable oiler used, with the adjustable tree in it.

Guess I should have mentioned this from the git-go.