I have been searching the web for some documentation on the installation of back to back angular contact ball bearings used in our process pumps. I have a PDF manual from FAG Bearings but it's lacking some information. Does anybody have a copy of something from a different manufacturer?
What I specifically need is installing the lock washer and nut on the shaft after the bearings have been installed.
Do you tighten the nut before or after the bearings have cooled. How tight do you make the nut? Till the outer races drag against each other or till they lock up?

Using a torque wrench ensures repeatibility. With cool bearing or within reason pull the nut up. So many use a drive rod and hammer - always ensure no metal into the bearing and use a 'cold-roll' steel rod, never brass. Pull is tight - full tight, not just touching.

Always check axial clearence and document. On old equipment; check journal diameters in four places (front and back)and the housing bore as well to ensure correct diameters and no taper.

I always go here first;

http://www.skf.com/mount/

You will have to sign up. Shows every detail of installation and removal.

Time for a culture revolution: Take all them hammers out of the tool chests and weld them to the nearest steel pillar. RIP. Never hammer even as a joke on a bearing. Start using a lever and a key that fits the nut. Use a long lever and if you like a specific torque, pull with a spring scale. There are also good torque wrenches that can handle modified (weld a downut with a square hole at a point next tot he nut) tools.

If you hit with a hammer, there are tiny glide marks made in the bearing so it looks like a Coke bottle cap around. During test run you can see the sharp clean peak from passing the small marks. After a week they are all worned away but the fatigue work has started. The proof comes when after just 2-3 years you have to replace the bearing and the fatigue spalls have precise distance roll to roll.... If you do not create marks, a well dimensioned and well lubricated bearing will work nicely for two decades or more. The disadvantage is that the workshop has less work to do, but they will sure feel more professional and will have more time to correct all the still bad machines.

FYI: For tools on bearing installation and removal, as well as lubrication and fluid handling, check www.maintenanceproductsdirect.com

I have heard mention that back-to-back angle-contact bearings on overhung pumps it's good to tighten so that the outer races can be moved against each other by hand with a some effort... definitely not bound up. This takes the place of the torque wrench check... which is highly dependent on the friction between inner ring and shaft.

No your question about before/after makes me wonder.... After the bearing cools I wouldn't think you would have much luck of moving the inner ring on the shaft.... Before it cools you are establishing a preload which is going to loosen when it cools to ambient (then possibly tighten again if it heats somewhat during operation).

I'm thinking before the bearing cools makes more sense for two reasons:
1 - The temperature of the bearing during operation is somewhere between ambient and the temperautre you heated it to for installation, so neither way is going to recreate the temperature at operation perfectly.
2 - You can always go back after it cools and double-check how difficult to slide the outer races against each other and if it feels really loose you can try again.

But don't trust me on this... I'm just thinking out loud. The more you can get your instructions direct from the manufacturer and specific to this application, the better.

I posted this on April 15 and noticed that it shows up before all the other earlier messages.... what's going on?

Always let cool before tightning. Otherwise bearings will shrink and nut\bearings will be loose.
We learned this the hard way.